Random thoughts of a fiber enthusiast - mostly fiber related, sometimes coherent

Tag: NaturalDye Page 7 of 8

Dye Sessions

I took a couple of dye sessions during SOAR.

These skeins were done during the natural dye workshop at HTTM. The skeins were pre-mordanted before we arrived. I’ve laid them out in a grid.  Mordants by row: top – alum; middle – tin; bottom – chrome.  Dye materials are in columns: left – cochineal; middle – logwood; right – chamomile.  The fibers were in the pots for about 30 minutes.

If I recall correctly, the dye pots for the cochineal and chamomile were copper, so that will have affected the final color.  We also did a small skein of indigo.  Indigo does not require mordant.  Since the entire workshop was only 15 minutes, the indigo skein had very, very short dip.  After pulling the skein out after the first dip of about 2 minutes, I aired it out to allow the indigo to develop a bit.  Then I put it back in for another 2 minutes.  Still, it was very very pale.  Not worth showing the photo.

I was very surprised at how bright the skeins were that were pre-mordanted with tin and chrome.  However, I’m still not sure that they will be a regular part of my natural dye repertoire.  I just don’t want to think about the disposal aspect.

I took a the Painting with Dye retreat session with Sara Lamb.  I chose to paint a silk warp. The color chip on the right are the colors I chose, courtesy of the Sara Lamb Color Consulting Services.  Flipping through her dye notebook, we picked out 3 colors that I liked.  Flipped her color chips over, it was paint by numbers.  Or, at least, mix by numbers.  It’s a bit like working with a bar recipe.  60% fuschia? check. 20% yellow? check. 20% blue? check.  And you paint. Unfortunately, I got carried away and accidentally made the yellow/brown at 50% instead of the red/pink.  But, in retrospect, I’m glad.  Since it was raw silk, it had a pretty strong yellow/brown base.  A stronger yellow/brown dye wouldn’t have made much difference, but a weaker red/pink would have been too washed out.

The colors aren’t as saturated as I had hoped.  I saturated the heck out of the silk without making it run.  I left it sit in the jelly roll and zip lock bag for 3-4 days.  (The dye session was Saturday morning, I finally washed the warp chain yesterday afternoon.)

The silk still stinks.  I’ve rinsed and rinse, and rinsed some more, and I still can’t get rid of the stink.  I left it outside for a day to air, and the smell is still there. Hopefully, it will fade over time.

This is the first time I’ve used fiber reactive dyes.  (Wait, I think I did a tie dye shirt at a company picnic once.  I leave the fiber reactive dyes to my sister.) I’ve always used acid dyes on silk in the past.  Silk is one of the oddities.  It’s a protein fiber that can be dyed with dyes for either protein and cellulose.  I’ve never noticed a smell with silk in the past before, so I don’t know if it’s an artifact of the raw silk and the soda ash that it was pre-mordanted with, or the combination of both.

Now, I just need to decide what I’ll use was weft when I weave this.  I know that it is supposed to be warp faced fabric, so I’ll need something a bit finer for the weft.  Sara recommends cotton.  I’ll have to see what I have in the stash.

Dye Day

Welcome to my dye studio — my yard with a portable propane cook top (it used to be Martin’s beer brewing cook top).  I have some cheap non-reactive pots (enamel and stainless steel) that are dedicated for dyeing.

Eucalyptus berries – 285g of assorted wool, 2 silk scarves, 1 silk hankie.  The color was a bit weak, so I added 1/2 cup of ammonia.  The water immediately had a yellow cast, but the wool took on a bit more red.  I added another 1/2 c about 30 minutes later to see if I can up the red values a bit (no). Surprisingly, the color produced by the berries are closer to the color produced by the green eucalyptus, than the silver one that the berries came off of.

Silver leaf eucalyptus – 285g of assorted wool, 2 silk scarves, 1 silk hankie.  Although my questionable scale said that I had over 1kg of leaves, this pot exhausted most quickly, leaving a very pale taupe on the fiber.  I added ammonia (see berries) to give it more of a rose tint.

Green leaf eucalyptus – same fiber as silver leaves.  This pot produced a very rich brown.  I opted not to modify it, and leave it as it.

I decided to pull the silks out and see what I’ve got…

Silk Scarves, front to back: green eucalyptus, no ammonia; silver eucalyptus, ammonia modified; eucalyptus berries, ammonia modified.

Silk Hankies, front to back: green eucalyptus, no ammonia; silver eucalyptus, ammonia modified; eucalyptus berries, ammonia modified.

There is another set of silk sheer scarves, but the colors are not as apparent on the drying rack.  I’ll take another picture after they are dried.

And I leave you with this last picture.  While brown isn’t exactly my color, it’s hard to argue with this result, isn’t it?

I’m going to let the wool cool down a bit in the pot before I rinse them.  I need to put my dye studio away before the rain starts!

Would I do this again?  Yes.  Although it didn’t provide the red-orange I was hoping for, I still like the results.  I may try and pre-mordant with alum the next time.  It should give it a brighter color.  An iron bath should deepen the brown, but I’m not interested in working with iron at this time.

Which eucalyptus material did I like the best?  The green elliptical leaves.  Although that was the most difficult to shred.  The next would be the berries from the round silver leafed eucalyptus.

Scarves anyone?  I might submit them in the next silent auction at the club.  After a show and tell at the guild, of course!

I’m cooking now!

I started to shred the eucalyptus leaves with my rose pruning shears.  After a few handfuls, I was starting to get worried.  It’s tedious work, and my mind will likely wander.  But, man, those shears can be dangerous, so close to my fingers.  I keep watching them get closer and closer to my fingers and anticipating blood.

It was then that I remembered an old desktop paper shredder that I retired (bought a new model that shredded CDs and credit cards).  And YES! It works! The downside is that it has an itty-bitty motor, and I have to stop every so often to let the motor cool down.  Two afternoons later, I have 2 buckets of shredded leaves. This little shredder is now going into my ever growing fiber tools pile.

It’s a good thing that there is construction on the house across the street.  With all that banging going on (they are still framing), no one can really notice the whine of the shredder.

The end result?

  • Silver Leaf Eucalyptus: 1.13kg
  • Berries: 350g
  • Green Leaf Eucalyptus: 710g

In retrospect, I’m not sure about the 1.13kg reading on the silver eucalyptus. The scale was going completely wacky when I was weighing the green leaves, and the readings ranged from 10g to 1.7kg, before I was able to fully clear it and get a consistent reading.  It had to do with swapping out an empty bucket and replacing it with a bucket of leaves.  I may just assume 750g of the silver eucalyptus to play it safe.

So, what’s the next step? According to Wild Color, by Jenny Dean, I need to simmer it for at least an hour and let it sit overnight before adding fiber.  No mordant is necessary to get an orange-red.  You can shift the color somewhat by either pre-mordanting it with alum (more orange), or modify it with iron afterwards (brown), or both (red-brown).  I plan on no mordants.

Wild Color also mentions that the color will be richer if I leave the dye stuff in the bath with the fiber, but I don’t think I want to deal with that right now.  I don’t want to pick leaf and berry bits out of the fiber when I’m done.  The other interesting thing is that Jenny recommends 1:1 weight of dye material to weight of fiber (wof), or a higher ratio for stronger colors.  According to my dye notebook, Ildiko normally recommends a 3:1 or 4:1 ratio.

Next decision would be what to dye.  I stopped at Thai Silk this afternoon to pick up a few pieces of silk to toss in the dye bath.  Silk always dyes up so differently than wool, that I thought it would be good to see how different it will be.  I have some plain white yarn, as well as some mohair roving.  I’d like to have some of the same stuff in each bath so I can have comparisons.

Lots of decisions before tomorrow!

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